“We have two rules here: calories don’t count, and there is no inherent dignity.” Leigh Melander, the “founding fomenter” of Spillian Estate, tells us this before heading to the bar area and returning with glasses of Pilsner ale from the Catskills Brewery. The group of us–strangers that, within the few hours we’d been together, already felt like friends–sat in the foyer, glowing in the bask of the hearth, sipping beer, and listening to Leigh talk about the house like an adoring mother. “There’s a different energy here, I think because of the woods,” she said. “It almost becomes an instrument…