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After the door clicks shut, it is dark, save the slit of gray light streaming in dully from the top corner of the room. This empty silo is shaped like the steeple of a church, or the hull of a boat, but jaggedly cut, and stretches 79 feet high. Between hushed footsteps and a weighted silence comes the distant sound of air swirling. It whooshes and whistles and twirls like ribbon around a spool. It makes the silence all the more noticeable and uneasy, the void oppressive and haunted. This is the Holocaust Tower, located in the zigzagging complex of…

I have had such a hard time putting my time in Berlin into words. It was four days as multilayered as the city itself, engulfed in history, expats, and affordability. My curiosity about this sprawling metropolis and those lost generation-ers among us who have given Berlin its claim to fame made for the perfect storm of a trip there. Though I wasn’t daring enough to take on their illustrious nightclub scene, I left, for lack of an actual word (see what I mean?), whirlwinded. So my way in today? Food. And beer. Schillerkiez, Berlin I was staying in an AirBnb…